Three young people approached us on the chaotic street, brandishing spray bottles. We could only see their eyes, due to the black bandanas stretched across their faces. “Abre los ojos!” I tried to open my eyes in response to the woman’s insistent voice, but my eyelids had their own agenda. The tear gas burned, and…
Stories from the field
Three Ecuadorian Dishes to Die For
Quick: what’s a typical Ecuadorian dish? Unless you have spent some time in this South American country, you probably have no idea. If you have friends who have visited Ecuador, you may have heard that restaurants here serve guinea pig, which is known locally as “cuy.” But most US residents don’t know what locals here…
State of Emergency in Ecuador: Reporting from Quito
Ominous images of riot police on horseback flanked by fires in the streets and framed by clouds of teargas in the background are painting a disconcerting picture of chaos and violence in Quito, the capital city of Ecuador. While the news reports of President Moreno’s declaration of a state of emergency throughout the country are…
Why is Sacagawea in Ecuador?
Many US visitors to Ecuador are surprised and pleased to discover that the country uses our dollars rather than a currency of their own. But, what’s more surprising about Ecuador’s use of dollars is how much of the change you receive includes old Sacagawea coins. These dollar coins were last minted for circulation in 2011…
Six Birds in One Shot
This is Juan Llumiquinga, an artist in the La Floresta barrio of Quito, which is known for its street art, bohemian vibe, and neighborhood culture. Juan is a bit of a legend here, due to an incident that involves six kids and a police officer. He heard a commotion outside his self-built home (he is…
Translating Peruvian Horn Language
In the US, we hit the car horn to either 1) warn of impending collisions or 2) express our frustrations. Drivers in Peru, however, use a subtle morse-code like language to communicate more specific messages. And although Peruvians likely don’t learn it in driving schools, eventually everyone develops a grasp of this situational language. Here’s…
Nazca Lines Reveal a Cautionary Tale
If you’ve heard of the Nazca lines in Southern Peru, you’ve probably heard the “alien theory” – that they were drawn to show alien spaceships where to land. After all, what other reason would ancient people have to draw miles-long lines and giant figures in the desert that could only be seen from high above? …
Sunday Seduction: Arequipa’s Pork Adobo
Spain claims adobo as their gastronomical invention, but the technique of preserving meats using vinegar and spices is common to many cuisines. In Peru, the most famous pork adobo comes from the Cayma district in the southern city of Arequipa and uses chicha, a wild-fermented corn drink, instead of vinegar as the base for marinating…
See the World, Save the World
Reducing climate change is our biggest collective challenge and certainly feels hopeless. And yet, even as we press politicians to help mitigate the unfolding catastrophe, and we try in various ways to reduce our personal carbon footprint, we can also support people who are working on projects to reverse climate change. Many of us are…