Quick: what’s a typical Ecuadorian dish?
Unless you have spent some time in this South American country, you probably have no idea. If you have friends who have visited Ecuador, you may have heard that restaurants here serve guinea pig, which is known locally as “cuy.” But most US residents don’t know what locals here eat on a daily basis because Ecuadorian restaurants are few and far between in the States, even in cosmopolitan cities like San Francisco.
Having spent a month in Ecuador exploring Cuenca, Quito, and the Galapagos Islands, we are getting a feel for the local food scene, and we have discovered a few dishes we look forward to adding to our cooking repertoire when we return to the US.
Llapingachos – these cheese-stuffed potato patties are our latest obsession. Seasoned with onions sauteed in achiote powder, these crispy-on-the-outside, creamy-on-the-inside “tortillas de papa” are often topped with peanut sauce and typically served with a fried egg, a simple side salad of shredded lettuce and sliced avocado, and a smattering of quick-pickled onions and tomatoes. A full meal might also include chorizo sausage, baked or fried pork, and mote (hominy). As far as we are concerned, llapingachos are a national treasure.
Locro de Papa – This creamy potato stew is a staple of Andean cuisine in Ecuador. The rich flavor is built on a base of onions and garlic sauteed with cumin and achiote powder, to which potatoes are added with water, then pureed. Milk and queso fresco round out the stew, which is topped with sliced avocado and fresh cilantro. It is the perfect antidote to rainy days that chill you to the bone, and is often served alongside popcorn, roasted corn kernels, and the ubiquitous condiment called “aji,” a spicy salsa made from hot peppers, onions and tomates de arbol (tree tomatoes).
Ceviche de Chochos – We stumbled across these brined beans in a grocery story on the Galapagos Island of Santa Cruz, as part of a refrigerated snack pack that included plantain chips, toasted corn kernels, a creamy yellow sauce for mixing, and a tiny plastic spoon. Chochos are also known as lupini beans because they come from the lupine plant. A major part of the ancient Andean diet, they have been called the “next superfood” for their high protein content, healthy fats, and elevated levels of fiber and minerals. They are also delicious; they have a taste and texture that is similar to boiled peanuts. Here in Ecuador, they are brined, bagged, and sold in the refrigerator section of grocery stores. Our favorite preparation is “cevichocho,” or ceviche de chocho. Basically, we mix them with finely chopped onions, bell peppers, and tomatoes and marinate them in a vinaigrette dressing overnight. You can buy this from street vendors on the sidewalk, where it is typically garnished with avocado and crunchy bits of chifle (plantain chips) and cancha (toasted corn kernels). Spicy aji is another common addition. I have been told by friends in the US that chochos are available at Trader Joe’s.
If you want to make these dishes at home, check out Laylita.com‘s authentic and easy-to-follow recipes for llapingachos, locro de papa, and ceviche de chochos.